In the world of wine, the term "maceration" is often bandied about in casual conversation and even finds its way onto the back of more than a few labels. I have to admit, when I first heard it mentioned in passing dialogue, I was a little embarrassed. I didn’t think wine did that sort of thing. And if it does, is it really an appropriate topic to discus over dinner? Or (egads!) print on the bottle? Does no one know the meaning of the word propriety*? (Just so you know, I get my tawdry sense of humor from my father, though he will deny it vehemently...)

In the process of winemaking, "maceration" is the period of time that the juice from the grapes spends in contact with the seeds, stems, and skins after crushing and during fermentation. It is this process that gives red wine its great color (color leeches from the skins into the juice), since the juice of the grape by itself is actually nearly colorless. For the production of most white wines, maceration is either very short or avoided altogether, depending on the varietal and/or winemaker. Rosé wines macerate for an abbreviated period of time to gain their pinkish hue (I’m getting pink just thinking about it!).

As the grape juice ferments (and sugar is turned into blessed alcohol), the byproduct carbon dioxide is created and continually rises to the top of the tank or other fermenting vessel. This creates a floating "cap" of grapes skins, stems, seeds, etc. that must be continually "punched down" (mixed) so that all of the juice is macerated. Remember the classic I Love Lucy grape-stomping episode? (Officially episode 150 "Lucy's Italian Movie" – my all time favorite by the way.) The traditional way to "punch down" the cap was by stomping it with the feet... hopefully all stompers practiced good hygiene. (Initial crushing was also done in this manner.) Thankfully, most modern winemakers have specialized, sterilized equipment for this. (Sorry, I have a thing about feet... I don’t even like my own.)

After fermentation is complete (this can take anywhere from 3 days to 3 months, depending on the type of wine being produced), maceration is finished as well (there are exceptions to that rule, I’ll get to that momentarily). The juice is drained from the skins, seeds, stems, etc. and goes on to the next step in the glorious winemaking process.

The exception to the rule is what winemakers call extended maceration (sounds good already!). This process involves leaving the juice in contact with the skins, seeds, stems, etc. for, you guessed it, and extended period of time. Originally a Bordeaux practice, extended maceration is becoming more and more prevalent around the globe. According to many winemakers, it increases depth of color, softens tannins (responsible for red wine’s "pucker" effect), and intensifies aromas. The practice is not for the faint of heart, however, as it can leave the future wine open for molds to grow and spoilage to occur. There’s also a point when the benefits of lengthy extraction time begin to reverse, and the opposite of the desired effects is experienced. It is a highly labor intensive process, as the juice must be monitored very carefully throughout the extended maceration period, which may last from several weeks to several months. The benefit of this process is that it often creates a wine that has the textures and tastes of one that has been aged. For those in to instant gratification and without the patience to hold their wine (like yours truly), this is a fantastic benefit indeed.

Cold maceration is the practice of allowing the skins, seeds, and stems to be in contact with the juice before fermentation begins. Fermentation is postponed by keeping the mixture at a temperature of about 50 degrees for 5 to 10 days. (Heat triggers fermentation.) This practice is thought to benefit varietals such as Pinot Noir, which on their own have low color and phenolics*. Cold maceration is believed to create a more fruit-forward, complex wine.

Winemakers in the Beaujolais region of France have perfected the art of carbonic maceration for their production of wine from the Gamay varietal. Carbonic maceration (also called whole grape fermentation) is the process of allowing the grapes to ferment without having been intentionally crushed. Essentially, fermentation then occurs inside each individual grape, though the grapes at the bottom of the tank will ferment in the conventional manner, as gravity naturally crushes them. Wines produced in this manner are distinctively fruity, low in tannins, and immediately drinkable, though they usually do not have the structure to age well.

Whatever type of maceration you enjoy - in your wines, that is – there’s no shame in it. So next time the topic is raised, whether you’re at a formal dinner or just out with good friends, don’t be prude. Join in, and impress your date with your extended knowledge! Cheers!

*Propriety: Noun. Conformity to established standards of behavior or manners, suitability, rightness, or justice. See "etiquette."

*Phenolics: Naturally occurring compounds present in grape skins and seeds and extracted from oak barrels. Phenolic compounds include tannins and pigments and are responsible for astringency, bitterness, color, some flavors and odors (like vanillin), and antioxidant activity (which helps wines age).