In the human life, struggle, trials, and tribulation often result in molding character, wisdom, strength, and resolve into person’s psyche. Some would say that without these factors, when life is just too easy, these qualities likely are not developed at all, and one ends up rather spoiled, dull, and complacent. Whilst pondering these complex issues - and trying to focus on the positive side of some personal struggles – I began to wonder… In a grape’s life, do these same principals apply? Does an over-protected, over-watered grape become bloated and flavorless?

Once upon a time, there was no such thing as irrigating a wine grape vineyard. Through the centuries, some of the most renowned and revered wines of Europe were made by careful selection of growing site and vineyard placement, soil quality, and annual rainfall expectations. Even in the early days of California wine, before the 1960s, most vineyards were “dry farmed,” using only the water that nature provided. And in some nearly hallowed regions such as Bordeaux and Burgundy, irrigation is against the law (though the law may conveniently contain some grey areas during exceptionally hot or draught years).

In the 1970s, drip irrigation (which applies water slowly and directly to the roots of the vines through a network of pipes) made its debut in California vineyards. Vintners were able to increase yields and manipulate the growing season through this system. Areas previously thought to be too dry for grape growing suddenly became accessible. Wine snobs all over Europe were shocked and appalled. We entrepreneurial Americans were once again discarding tradition and embracing technology. Wine, they argued, was only worth drinking if it had a sense of terroir, if the vine had a noble life of struggle, digging its roots deep, taking its flavor from the soil in which it was grown. Californians however, believed that a scientific approach to winemaking could and would yield internationally respected wines, as well as a tidy profit. And by today, 70% of California’s 471,000 acres of wine vineyards benefit from some type of irrigation system.

But in recent years, some American winemakers have begun to return, at least partially, to traditional dry farming. In Oregon, the Deep Roots Coalition was founded by John Paul of Cameron Winery. It is a coalition of conservation-minded winemakers who believe that not only does dry farming produce better wine, it is also better for the planet. A multitude of California vintners are returning to the old ways as well. And not all for environmental platitudes. “You can put whatever spin you want on it,” stated John Williams of Frog’s Leap Winery in Napa, “But I’m dry farming because of the results I can see in the wine.” But how does watering a vine relate to the flavor of the wine? I’m glad you asked.

In nature, a grape vine that relies on finicky Mother Nature for its sustenance instinctively grows its roots deep into the soil, seeking the moisture that is found there. In fact, when a vine is water deprived, its amazing roots are capable of drilling through almost any kind of soil. In the Douro Valley region of Portugal, grapes are grown literally on the sides of mountains, and vine roots grow to a depth of 65 feet in search of water. (For more on the Douro Valley wine region, go to crushnews.com archives bin #058.) It is these deep roots, many believe, that instill terroir in a wine. A connection to the very soil and place where they are grown. An “earthiness” in the flavors of the wines that comes from those deep roots literally sucking up a multitude of minerals found deep in the soil.

Conversely, vines that are regularly irrigated grow a much more shallow system of roots, and physiologically, the plants stay active for an extended growing season. Phillip Coturri of Enterprise Vineyards, a vineyard management company, believes that to “get today’s super-ripe flavors the vines need hydration. Irrigation produces a very different type of wine. Irrigation is a tool for extended ripening.” And since the market of late (at least the American market) has shifted to ultra-ripe, jammy, fruit-forward, smack-you-in-the-teeth wines, irrigation has been a key to producing these flavors.

Irrigation also is an important factor for producing a consistent crop of grapes. There is great benefit financially to being able to predict with certainty the yearly tonnage of grapes a particular vineyard is expected to yield. And vineyards in California tend to be much larger than their European counterparts, making them harder to manage without irrigation.

But critics of irrigation state that, while watering the vines does positively affect fruit quantity, it adversely affects fruit quality. Proponents of dry farming point out that a vine that struggles puts more effort into berry production and less into its leaves and canopy (leaving the plant to often look a little sickly), and yields smaller - and a smaller amount of – fruit, but with more concentrated flavors and colors. Vines that drink to their hearts’ content tend to look the part of Promised Land stories, with impressive green, leafy canopies and a plethora of large, juicy berries. But, state critics, while the irrigated grapes look like they would make a great wine, it’s the dry farmed ones that actually make great wine. Because the more juice in the grape, the more diluted its flavors, as most of the flavor is concentrated close to the skin. And that leads to vineyard managers letting the fruit hang a little longer, letting the grapes get ultra ripe to increase sugar levels, which in turn leads to higher alcohol content in the wine and those “jammy” flavors that are all the rage.

True dry farming relies heavily on soil preparation for its success, and frequent tillage is key. John Williams, who now dry farms 200 acres of his vineyards in Napa Valley, states, “By tilling, you form a dust mulch that seals the water into the ground, and the only way it can get out is by capillary action through the vine’s roots. The dirt actually becomes a sponge, holding the moisture, which is released slowly through the vine.” This highly labor intensive practice is repeated approximately every 10 days in his non-irrigated vineyards.

Williams, along with winemakers like Boris Champy of Christian Moueix’s Dominus Winery, are passionate about dry farming. Williams expressed his views on irrigation stating, “If we talk about when wine went from its historic place as a mealtime beverage that deeply reflects the soil and climate from whence it comes, to killer jammy monsters that advertise that they will ‘melt your panties,’ I think you will come to the same conclusion that we did 18 years ago: that the real wines are made by deeply connecting them to their soils and that dry farming is fundamental to that.”

So dry farmed is better, right? Not necessarily. The climate in Australia makes it nearly impossible to grow grapes without some type of supplemental irrigation. And vintners there would argue that they are producing some exceptional wines. But many also agree that a vine that is moderately water stressed does produce the best fruit. So they have perfected such techniques as Regulated Deficit Irrigation (RDI), in which water is withheld from the vines during critical stages of its growing cycle, and Partial Rootzone Drying (PRD). PRD waters only one side of the vine’s root ball at a time, switching sides periodically to maintain a healthy plant. This system “tricks” the vine into believing that it is water stressed, slowing its lateral shoot growth without adversely effecting yield or the health of the vine. Leave it to a colony of outlaws to resort to ingenious trickery to produce world-class wines.

The irrigation debate is just part of an ongoing clash between traditionalists and modernists in the arena of winemaking. General manager of Tablas Creek Vineyard in Paso Robles, Jason Haas believes that ultimately, “It really depends on whether you are trying to make a product that is consistent or a product that represents that place and year in as compelling a way as possible.” Tablas Creek has some dry farmed and some irrigated vineyards. And Phillip Coturri, whose company manages both types of vineyards, concedes, “Where irrigation is a science, dry farming is more of an art. It’s not always possible, but when it is, it’s the best option.”

James Kennedy, a wine chemist at Oregon State University, has a more practical outlook on this passionate debate. He states, “Through advances in the plant sciences, many New World wine regions use irrigation intelligently to maximize quality. This has been achieved through progress in understanding vine stress and its relationship to wine composition, and being able to manage this situation.”

And that’s the heart of the matter, and the reason all those Europeans have their panties in a wad. Science takes the mystery out of wine (and I do love a good mystery). That je ne se qua that comes from long history, connection to the land, and toil in the fields… Not, to them, from a chemist in the wine room. (That might drive down the price of their wine.)

At the end of the day, it once again comes down to preference (or in some cases financial necessity). It’s not wrong or right to prefer one type of wine over another, and there should be no shame in enjoying a “traditionally incorrect” wine… No matter what the Europeans think. I mean really, what’s the point? I’m not European, I don’t plan on being European, so who gives a crap if they’re traditionalists? There’s plenty of demand in the market for both types of wine. And while I go back to contemplating how much character, wisdom, strength, and resolve life has beat into me over the years, a heavily irrigated bottle of 4 $ wine (representing the last of my petty cash) tastes pretty darn good… or at least eases the pain a bit. Cheers!