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Written By Laurie Gilchrist | 9/1/2008 | Email
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For long time CRUSHfans and perhaps newcomers alike, it’s no secret that The John has a healthy… okay, maybe slightly UNhealthy… obsession with that most peculiar, most enigmatic, most entrancing, cerebro altering, and loco inspiring of spirits… Tequila. Now, I’m not talking about the el-cheapo, mixto, frat-party type swill that we’ve all regretted ingesting on a not-so-blissful morning after. No, my friends, The John has a taste for the finer things in life. He enjoys his tequila pure blue agave, top shelf, made for sipping, no mixing, limes, or salt allowed. A true connoisseur, if you will. So when in recent years premium Mezcal (the father of tequila) began immigrating (legally) to the U.S., our illustrious, eccentric Editor-In-Chief was on the verge of divination. Like a catholic touching the Shroud of Turin. So inspired was he in fact, that he commissioned Yours Truly to pass along a little history and explanation so that we can all share his most joyful, most numinous discovery.
The origins of Mezcal can be traced to the fermented agave juice (octili poliqhui or pulque) that indigenous peoples of what is now central Mexico used in religious ceremonies. Later, the Aztecs restricted the drinking of pulque to the elite, special holidays, and of course, those fortunate individuals destined to be sacrificed to the gods. In the 16th century, the Spanish arrived in Mexico and brought with them distillation techniques, which they soon applied to pulque. Cooked, distilled pulque was christened “Mezcal Wine” and the father of Tequila (and the first distilled beverage in the Americas) was born.
Tequila (originally called Mezcal de Tequila) is actually technically a type of Mezcal. By Mexican law, Tequila must be fermented from only one type of agave plant (a member of the lily family), the Agave Tequiliana Weber or Blue Agave, grown in one specific region around the state of Jalisco in west-central Mexico. For the production of Mezcal, eleven different species of agave can be used, giving the beverage a subtle range of flavors similar to using different grape varietals in winemaking. Many experts believe that terrior also plays a significant roll in the flavor profile of Tequila and Mezcal. There are no restrictions in which states Mezcal may be produced, however the majority are made in the state of Oaxaca.
While Tequila by law has only to contain 51% agave spirits (the rest is often made up of distilled cane sugar), all Mezcal must be 100% agave. (High quality Tequila is 100% Blue Agave and will always have this printed proudly on the label. Beware the “mixto” tequila. They don‘t print that on the label, but all that cane sugar is what’s probably going to give you a killer hangover... and Tequila undeservedly a bad name)
For the production of Tequila, the pina (heart of the agave) is harvested and slowly baked in either a steam oven or autoclave (stainless steel pressure cooker) until the plant’s starch has been converted into sugars. Mezcal however, is still produced in much the same manner that it has been for hundreds of years. The agave pina is baked in an underground, wood charcoal oven, giving the spirit a characteristic smoky flavor.
Tequila and Mezcal is sold in four separate classifications: Silver or Blanco - clear, with little or no aging, can be mixto or 100% agave; Gold - unaged silver Tequila flavored with caramel, usually mixto; Reposado - “rested,” aged in wooden casks or tanks for at least 2 months, can be mixto or 100% agave; Anejo - “old,” aged in wood barrels (often used Bourbon barrels) for at least a year and up to 4 years, can be mixto or 100% agave.
The infamous “worm” at the bottom of the bottle is a practice only allowed in Mezcal production, not Tequila, and is actually the larvae of two types of moths that make their homes on the agave plants. These larvae are eaten as a delicacy in Mexico and may have originally been added to Mezcal as “proof of high proof.” (If the larvae stays pickled, the percentage of alcohol in the Mezcal is high.) As a general rule, high quality Mezcal is bottled worm-free.
Traditionally, both Tequila and Mezcal are served in a 2 ounce “caballito” glass, but recently the Riedel glass company has introduced a 6 and ¾ ounce Tequila glass with a long stem in order to “lift fine Tequila (and Mezcal) to the level it deserves.” These spirits are also often presented in a Scotch glass. Top shelf Tequila and Mezcal should be sipped at room temperature, 86 the salt and lime (a dead giveaway that you‘re a beginner). If you’re planning on slamming shots of the el cheapo stuff so you can look cool or tough for your so-called friends, remember… No one looks cool the next morning when they’re curled in a fetal position begging the bad man to stop...
But regardless of whether drinking Tequila brings you closer to the gods or begging the Big God for forgiveness, Mezcal is a spirit worthy of reverence… Or at least a little respect. Cheers!